Written by Ash

Bunkers del Carmel: The Best Barcelona Viewpoint

February 1, 2023 | 12 comments

Looking for a Barcelona viewpoint straight out of a postcard?

If you need a romantic sunset or a day of quiet contemplation above the city chaos, look no further than the 257 meter (843 feet) high anti-aircraft battery called the Bunkers del Carmel.

Tourists and locals alike are slowly discovering this gorgeous panoramic, but trust me when I say that compared to places like Park Guell the bunkers are basically undiscovered.

Bunkers del Carmel

So why am I writing this article in the first place?

To get you to put the Bunkers in your Barcelona itinerary because:

There’s a fantastic 360º city view with the Sagrada Familia, the sea, and Montjuic Hill.
It gives an interesting cross-section of Barcelona history.
It’s easily accessible with multiple Barcelona transport options.
It’s found in an unspoiled, natural setting that hasn’t sold out to tourists.
There are unparalleled photo opportunities.
It’s free!

Bunkers del Carmel History

Once an abandoned Iberian settlement, the push to create modern Barcelona turned the Bunkers del Carmel (also known as ‘Turo de la Rovia’) into an important agricultural base of vineyards and almond trees.

Then there was the Spanish Civil War.

After the bombing of Barcelona by the Italian Legionary Air Force killed over 800 and destroyed 50 buildings, the local government saw the area’s viewpoint for its strategic importance and built seven circular gun platforms and a series of bunkers.

In the post-war period the bunker’s remains were transformed into a squatter settlement called Els Canons – leading to over one hundred self-built houses. These ‘shacks’ were all but destroyed before the 1992 Olympic Games.

Since then Turo de la Rovira has been refurbished and turned into a museum of sorts: handrails guide visitors upwards, five historic information panels dot the area, and the slopes of the hill have been reforested with Mediterranean pines.

How to Visit the Bunkers in Barcelona

The Bunkers del Carmel are open 24-7 so grab a seat on one of the massive concrete slabs, crack open your Estrella or a bottle of cava, and enjoy the top Barcelona viewpoint for free.

Public drinking is widely tolerated so you’ll have no problems. Just make sure to bring some water as well because the hike is a bit tiring. Add some bread, chorizo, and cheese and maybe something sweet and you’ve got the perfect meal or sunset snack.

The closest supermarket is Suma at Carrer d’Albert Llanas 30.

If you don’t bring food make sure you fill your stomachs at nearby Restaurante Delicias (the patatas bravas are to die for) – it also doubles as a place for coffee or a solid bar for a drink.

The Turó de la Rovira History Museum

The MUHBA (Museum of the History of Barcelona) has included Turó de la Rovira in its network of historical points of interest for a few years now.

Here you can dive into the history of the Bunkers with this free exhibition space giving you access to some of the bomb shelters used during the war.

You’ll see:

The officer’s pavilion
The troop pavilion
The battery command post

And read several informational placards about what the various spaces were used for.

The “Barcelona al límite” (Barcelona on the edge) series will tell you the story of city life during a very dark period.

Some museum visit info:

Hours: Wednesdays from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm, Saturday and Sunday from 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Closed New Year’s Day, May 1st, June 24th and Christmas Day.

Guided tours can be booked writing to [email protected] or by calling (+34) 93 256 21 22 (Monday to Friday from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm to 7:00 pm).

Remember: these are the museum hours, the Bunkers themselves are always open!

The MUHBA is included in the Barcelona Card.

How to Get to Bunkers del Carmel

From Plaça de Catalunya

If you’re coming from the Gothic Quarter or Raval grab the 24 bus from Plaça de Catalunya and continue about 20 minutes uphill and get off at the ‘Doctor Bové Gran Vista’ stop – it’s number 268.

The 24 bus also stops along Passeig de Gracia and its famous attractions Casa Batllo and La Pedrera and the well-connected Diagonal metro station.

From Sagrada Familia

The least strenuous way to get to the Bunkers del Carmel from Eixample is taking the blue line (L5) of the metro to El Carmel. Head out through the Llobregas exit and walk down to bus 86.

You could also walk to the Verdaguer metro station and take the yellow line (L4) to Alfons X. From there follow the steady incline for 20-25 minutes, but remember this will be a decent workout!

From Park Guell

If you’re visiting Europe’s best urban park it’s only a 20-25 minute walk for a place with less crowds and a superior view. Simply take the exit that leads to the bus parking lot and choose from one of three routes.

Still Want to Visit the Bunkers in Barcelona?

I’ve given you the low down on the Bunkers del Carmel but maybe I missed something? Got anything to say on the issue? If so get at me by writing a comment below and I’ll get back to you ASAP.

And remember that doesn’t just cover Turo de la Rovia: any question you have about visiting Barcelona I am here!

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